Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica - also called cica or tiger grass - is a wetland herb native to Asia that has been used in traditional medicine for centuries to heal wounds and calm inflammation. In modern skincare, it has become the go-to ingredient for barrier repair, soothing reactive skin, and buffering the irritation caused by active ingredients like retinol and AHAs.   How it works: centella's active compounds - madecassoside, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid -work through several mechanisms. They calm inflammation at a cellular level, stimulate collagen synthesis to support barrier structure, and accelerate the skin's natural healing process. A 2025 clinical study found that a centella-containing formula measurably improved redness, skin barrier function, and sebum balance in subjects with sensitive skin within four weeks of consistent use.   Where centella earns its place in a routine: it is one of the few ingredients that benefits almost every skin type. For skin that has been over-exfoliated - tight, flaky, red, or reactive after using too many actives at once - centella is a recovery tool. For skin starting on retinol, applying a centella product first or mixing centella into your moisturiser can significantly reduce the dryness and purging phase. For acne-prone skin, it calms post-breakout inflammation and reduces the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.   Ingredient compatibility: centella is one of the most compatible actives in skincare. It works alongside niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, AHAs, BHAs, and retinol. It will not destabilise other formulations or cause the kind of reactions that vitamin C or strong acids can when combined incorrectly.   Suitable for all skin types and ages. Pregnancy-safe. Fragrance-free products with centella are particularly suitable for reactive or eczema-prone skin.   Frequently asked questions: Is centella asiatica the same as cica? Yes - cica is the widely used shorthand, popularised through K-beauty. On ingredient labels, look for Centella Asiatica Extract, madecassoside, or asiaticoside - all indicate the same plant. Can I use centella with retinol? Yes, and it is actively recommended. Applying centella before or after retinol helps reduce the dryness, peeling, and sensitivity that commonly accompany retinol use - especially in the first 4–6 weeks. Does centella fix a damaged skin barrier? It supports repair, but barrier recovery also requires reducing the frequency of actives, using a ceramide or peptide moisturiser, and avoiding harsh cleansers. Centella accelerates the process - it does not replace the other steps.