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Toners vs tonics and do we need them?

August 2024, South Africa – For the most part, skincare is self- explanatory with everyone being familiar with the important steps in any routine – that is cleanser for cleaning, moisturiser for moisturising and sunscreen for sun protection. Toners and tonics however, fall into the ‘maybe’ category with many not truly knowing the value of this liquid goodness for their skin. Sitting next to serums in the tall order of skincare application, which seems to get more and more complicated every time the TikTok algorithm goes brrr, toners have been a mystery to most people for a long time.

Natasha Davel from Fundamentals Skincare said, “Have you ever found yourself Googling similar questions regarding toners? Well the mystery is over. Fundamentals Skincare is a local, clean and vegan skincare brand that prides itself in making skincare simple for everyone. This month we are launching four brand new toners and here is why you need at least one to include into your skincare routine.”

What is a toner?

Let’s start at the beginning. A toner always comes in a liquid consistency and functions similar to a moisturiser – just in a liquid formulation. Some toners have cleansing and hydrating properties and others may have exfoliating and anti-ageing benefits. Fundamentals skincare has chosen to create treatment toners that physiologically change the skin.

“Think of it as a cross between a moisturiser and a cleanser, but not as the acidic and drying ones you may know. The easiest way of thinking of them is as a liquid moisturiser. Traditionally, when someone speaks to you about a toner, you think of the quite astringent, quite harsh things that strip the skin. Toners these days are more about restoring and hydrating the skin,” added Davel.

What benefits does a toner have?

If you choose the correct toner for your skin type and skin concerns and use it correctly and consistently, you will easily achieve the benefits your skin will appreciate. A good toner can have a couple of benefits , making them multi-functional, and good value for money products. Some of these benefits include:

  • Toners are very good in helping restore the skin’s pH. Naturally, our skin is quite acidic and the natural pH is anything between 4.7 and 5.75. In your post cleansing step, toners can help balance the skin and prep it for the next step.
  • Another key benefit is hydration. Toners allow you to clean your skin sufficiently without causing dry, dehydrated skin. Toners allow your skin to absorb more into its pores and therefore, if you follow up your toner with a moisturiser, chances are your skin will absorb more goodness into it than before.

“The best way I can explain it is to think of your skin as a sponge. If you were to take a dry sponge and rub a cream onto it, it’s not going to do very much. However, if you wet the sponge it takes anything on. Your skin is the same. So, your toner plays a role in preparing your skin for everything else to go on and it’s going to increase the permeability of your skin,” added Davel.

Toners VS Tonics and the different types

When we speak about a tonic, we refer to a formulation that is heavier with humectants and moisturising ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and rose water. They are often referred to as the extra “hydrating” step which focuses on conditioning the skin and adding a moisture boost to one’s skin care routine. Tonics are for moisture boosting and conditioning.

In the traditional sense, toners were created as an extra “cleansing” step to remove any residue, act as an astringent for oily or inflamed skin and add extra nutrients to the skin to help prepare the skin for hydration. This is why Witch Hazel and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are common ingredients in toners, as they help strip away any oily residues and clear out pores to thoroughly prime the skin for the next steps.

When purchasing a toner, look for one that is alcohol free, fragrance free, ideally pH balanced, and non-comedogenic. Secondly and very importantly, you want to define your skin type and what you want your toner to do for you. This will make the decision a lot easier.

“In a nutshell: if you are looking for increased hydration, you will want to get a toner that has hyaluronic acid, ceramides and lipids in it. If it’s anti-ageing you are after, you want to be looking for something that’s rich in antioxidants. If you are wanting something that gives you a glow, you need to be looking then towards things like your AHAs and your acids. And lastly, if you’ve got acne-prone skin, you should look for a toner formulated with BHAs and salicylic acid,” explained Davel.

How to use a toner?

Apply your toner to your skin within two minutes post shower/bath. It is important to do this while your skin is damp. Use a cotton round and pour a few drops onto the round before patting into your skin or pour a few drops into the palm of your hands and then proceed with gently pressing the product into your skin. Remember: the rule of thumb is to start with your thinnest consistency and build up towards your thickest. The order would be: cleanser, toner, serums (water and then oil) , moisturiser and in the mornings – SPF. An eye cream would be the very last step. Keep in mind that if your toner burns or irritates your skin it’s a sign that your toner isn’t right for you.

How to choose?

Fundamentals Skincare today reveals their four brand new toners that target all the key benefits you need and there is one for every skin type.

  1. Inflasoothe. This toner is water-based formulated with 2% Centella Asiatica and 1% Beta Glucan to gently and effectively target pores. It will also soothe the skin and reduce inflammation. Testing has shown that this toner will prevent chronic inflammation by 34,34% and reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) effectively after UV Radiation 22,41% and is suitable for all skin types.
  2. Moisture Boost. This is an intensely hydrating toner that minimises trans-epidermal water loss. Tests have shown that it increases water content in the outer stratum corneum by 22,9% as well as increases the water content in the lower stratum corneum by 12% and improves the water distribution in skin by 50%. This toner has 95% Squalane, 2% Hyaluronic Acid, 1% Ceramide and is suitable for all skin types.
  3. Pore Control. Manages sebum production, improves overall skin health, unclogs pores and creates a smooth finish that manages imperfections for purified skin. Formulated with Niacinamide, 5% Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, 2% Hyaluronic Acid, this toner is suitable for oily and combination skin types.
  4. Refresh toner. This toner is a highly effective toner for the soothing of inflammation, redness, irritation, swelling and itchiness. A concentrate that has anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits, calming skin irritation while soothing redness and swelling, giving the skin relief and greater comfort especially in hypersensitive skin. Hero ingredients include: Green Tea Extract, Bisabolol, Beta Glucan and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract. This toner has shown to reduce itching by 45% and reduce burning, heat, tightness and stinging sensations by 20% after two weeks. Suitable for all skin types.

Do I need a toner?

“There are a lot of people that don’t like skincare and don’t like multiple steps. And if there was one step that you could skip, it would probably be your toner. But there are toners for every skin type. They’re for people that want to elevate their skincare game one level higher,” concluded Davel.